Rodarte Spring 2010

Is it possible for New York Fashion Week to go on without everyone's favorite label on the rise? Which I don't even consider to be on the rise anymore, seeing tat with looks like these it's impossible to do wrong no matter what.

Since their total and complete take over of the hearts of millions with their Fall 2008 collection, where dresses were inspired by blood moving through water, Rodarte is my equivalent to Paris' Givenchy. By that I mean, dark, sensual, and too gorgeous for words.

As Alexander Wang has his hands full with Jill Stuart's latest turn to body-con, Miuccia Prada's primitive woman has just found some competition her own (and I mean that in the best way possible). With a moss and sand covered runway, that later lead to a model taking the annual Rodarte Spring tumble (seen in every Spring collection since 2009), it did not take much to tell where Kate and Laura Mulleavy got their inspiration this season. The early stages of humanity, just like Prada Fall 2008.

Normally when a show opens with plaid tops your mind instantly goes to Fall, but somehow doing the impossible, nothing seemed more right. Whether it was a clever scheme to get the few plaid looks on the backs of celebs ASAP as we head into Fall or just a just a way to add a special contrast print to the show, I would call the opening looks transitional dressing at it's finest.

Later going into are more modern mix of zip trousers and chich transparencies, which we could have only saw coming from Donatella Versace, it's the three closing dresses at the end of the show that stole my heart.

Though I'm going to be on a mission for those zip pants once they're available, the eclectic mix of cut-outs formed by draping paired alongside fur was just absolutely perfect. Don't count on seeing one of those dresses at the Emmy's on Sunday, but except one to show up somewhere soon.
  
Body-con Count: 4
Sheer Count: 7 1/2
Look Total: 35

The Full Collection After The Jump

Donna Karan Spring 2010

New York Fashion may now be coming to a close and we're now gearing up for what is to come out of London, Milan, and most of all Paris, but I am already picking out my favorites. I will even goes as far as saying that this is by far Donna Karen's strongest in recent seasons. Which says a lot seeing as you can't think that it can possibly get any better the next season to follow. Going against the grind and sticking to her figure flattering pieces instead of the season's current body-con craze, if your like me and refuse to give up your skinny jeans no matter what, the intricate folds and to die for goddess draped dresses will leave you re-thinking everything you ever put on from this point on.

Perfection molded down and formed into 39 looks sure to drive women wild. If you've doubted Donna Karen's work recently, which I can't imagine how you could, this should catch your attention. Muted tones of gray on weightless fabrics, Spring is in the air, and it has never looked better. While I must admit, sometimes a pencil skirt can get a little boring, but when it's paired with some the most interesting jackets and blouses, you can't help but be amazed.

I could continue on about how much I love this collection, but the work put into it speaks for itself. Hopefully one the closing dresses will appear somewhere at Sunday's Emmy Awards.

Body-con Count: 3
Sheer Count: 6 1/2
Look Total: 39

The Full Collection After The Jump

Marc Jacobs Spring 2010

Are you one of those people that just can't seem to let go of the genius that was the Louis Vuitton Spring 2007 collection? Well by the looks of it, Marc Jacobs is. Ever since he days back at Perry Ellis, it has been pretty clear that Marc is quite a fan of layering. Seen in almost every collection he attaches his name to, it is just part of the designer's DNA. Showing a collection this season, high on layering, and light on boredom, if Cirque du Soleil were to stage one of fashion week's hottest tickets, this would probably be the outcome.

Channeling the effortlessly glamorous Louis Vuitton Spring 2007 bag lady, that we all fell in love with some way or another, Marc Jacobs takes us down memory lane for Spring 2010. Pleasantly so. Bras and corsets placed over over button-ups and sweaters, with Lady Gaga sitting in the front row, it will only be a matter of time before complete looks go missing. Along with a recreation of the make-up too, in true Gaga fashion.

Displaying a wide range of ruffles that went from plaid to pinstripe, and even draped in gowns at one point, the 80s lovingly power woman of Fall 2009 past is gone, and a more poetic woman that stand on her own remains today. Wearing only what she feels is right and what looks absolutely. Surly I am not alone with my thoughts of seeing Rachel Zoe in the dresses towards the end of the show, which gave off a very special vintage feel.

Makes you wondering what we are going to see come Paris fashion week, no?

Body-con Count: 3
Sheer Count: 5 1/2
Look Total: 51

The Full Collection After The Jump

Jill Stuart Spring 2010

What would fashion week be each season without change? Would you honestly tune in show after show if there was absolutely no progression? Probably not. If your still looking around for Jill Stuart's modern cross between pixie and fairy, as seen in Spring 2009, say so long. Trading in free flowing for form-fitting, it looks like Alexander Wang has some competition on his hands now. Not only in aesthetic, but in terms of shoes to kill for next season.

Always finding a way to strike that special cord in a woman's heart, Jill Stuart does it again. Taking us to the point where the 80s met the 90s. Sheer spandex leggings, metallic dresses mixed in with lace, it's hard to be remotely down in the dumps after looking at the spirit and work up into this collection. Keeping with her attitude of comfort and elegance in what we wear, a few less constricting pieces were sprinkled throughout the show. Though the message was mostly short-chic-sheer.

Surly a few of these looks will be instantly snatched up the moment they hit shelves, though the lace up mesh open-toe boots need to be mine. Probably more than anything else this season.

Body-con Count: 3
Sheer Count: 4 1/2
Look Total: 34

The Full Collection After The Jump

Alexander Wang Spring 2010

Did you ever think that you would see Alexander Wang and football in the same sentence? If you just answered no, you should probably start to question your own sanity. Seeing as nobody can do American sportswear quite like Alexander Wang. From fringed sweat shirts to mesh and spandex paired with sky-high booties, only in his mid-20's Wang has upped the game in New York fashion week. Walking the fine line between taste and tasteless. Often leaving you amazed with perfect combos that you never in a million years would have thought perfectly coordinated. Like barely there shorts, thigh-high socks, and open-toe booties.

Well, OK. It may not seem like a practical idea if your not built like Anna Selezneva, but if you and I share the same brain, you would just be glad that your able to wear thigh-high socks and open-toe booties again, because you were to too naive to jump aboard the trend back when Miuccia Prada did it in her Fall 2007 collection for Prada.

Taking it back to the point in time when cheerleading uniforms hit just at the knee, for Spring 2010 Alexander Wang wants you to get your head in the game. Opening the show with a sea of neutrals and more inspired looks, it was clear from the start where the designer's inspiration came from. Later taking the show above and beyond with the addition of those black booties that I must own ASAP, things got exciting with the transparent black looks towards the end. Mixing glamour and sports all at once. Showing that you still can have power whilst half-naked.

Possibly drawing inspiration from the fact that the current wave in shoulder trends just so happens to resemble that of quarterback's shoulders, it's moments like this that sometimes sparks interest in sports (not really).

Body-con Count: 2
Sheer Count: 3 1/2 
Look Total: 41

 The Full Collection After The Jump

Preen Spring 2010

Lace-panelled cut-outs, peachy flesh tones, and relaxed transparencies - All the makings of a skin filled summer. The British design duo strike again. This season, silent but deadly. Keeping with their rock-chic/show everything without actually showing anything sense of dressing, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi take a step away from Fall 09's turn to the the 80s, and instead take a deep plunge into the 90s. This time around leaving the extreme denim, boyish silhouettes, and overdone plaid in the past. Thankfully so.

If your patiently waiting for pants to drool over at Balmain and shoes that will most likely lead you down a path of extreme shoe addiction courtesy of Givnechy, look no further. Putting the two together with clothes to match, Preen's latest collection is already a high of the Spring 2010 season. Adding a feminine touch to loose and free flowing shapes, in my eyes, nothing has ever looked more perfect.

Adopting the strong shoulder as every other designer in recent months, this time around those bold and powerful shoulders meet lace tops and transparent dresses. Creating variety with straps ranging from thick to barely there and pants in both wider shapes and ones with a skinner fit, when these pieces hit shop, no woman should be without Preen in their closet.

I'm sure Daine Kruger, Thandie Newton, and Emma Watson have their eyes set on a few things already. I know that I do.

Body-con Count: 2
Sheer Count: 2 1/2
Look Total: 40

The Full Collection After The Jump 

Jason Wu Spring 2010

Back in 2006 when Frida Giannini first proved herself at Gucci with her Fall collection for the house, Valentino staged his famous segmented show with stairs and multiple Kate Wax songs, John Galliano went nude and nothing but for Dior Spring 2006 - Could you honestly say that you knew who Jason Wu was? Or even what his signature look was? Surly you would find yourself saying "no".

Fast-forward a few years and quite a few seasons later, Jason Wu is a name that almost everyone knows. Owing a large portion of that status to First Lady Michelle Obama, you can also count his mixture of power, femininity, and the perfect dose of sensuality for most of his success today. Which is exactly what we saw for Spring 2010.

Venturing into all of the things a little girl dreams of, pinks, reds, polka dots, and feathers - Wu present a collection that would drive a girl insane (with pleasure of course) and make a grown woman feel right at home. Adding a Parisian flair the loose black headpieces and bold red lip, just as we saw at Dolce & Gabbana for Fall 2009, Michelle Obama will unbodulty be pleased. Most likely opting out for modified versions of the runway looks though. Seeing as a slightly sheer top or borderline micro mini, really doesn't scream "I am a First Lady".

Since there wasn't too much sheer here, we can count Jason Wu in for a half of a vote for sheering as a trend for next Spring. Body-con no where in sight.

Body-con Count: 1
Sheer Count: 1 1/2
Look Total: 38

The Full Collection After The Jump

BCBG Max Azria Spring 2010

The Summer may officially (unofficially really) be over, seeing as Labor Day has now come and gone, but it is collections such as these that make you wish for a never ending Spring/Summer. If the BCBG Max Azria show was any prediction for what we have in store later this week, expect skin, print, and the ongoing love of the body-con dress.

As we already see with the genius that is his work towards creating new ways of making a bandage dress new and something interesting at Hervé Léger, if you have not noticed before, it is starting to become clear that Max Azria secretly has a love for asymmetrical dresses. Well at least in his Spring Summer collections, seeing as he also showed them in his Spring 2009 collection.

With his out of this world draping in place and criss-cross-sandals ranging from gray towards the opening of the show, black in towards the center, and back to gray for the closing look, it is only a matter of time before every dress in the "all dress and nothing but dress" show will be snatched up before you know it. Seeing now that you can purchase the crossover t-shirt dress that opened the show and the printed t-shirt dress seen on Katie Fogarty now online. Talk about giving the people what they want.

Since I smell the rise of body-con and sheer dresses this season and downsizing is taking place everywhere we turn, I've decided to keep track. Topping off the list with BCBG Max Azria.

Body-con Count: 1
Sheer Count: 1
Look Total: 31

The Full Collection After The Jump

Armani Privé Fall 2009 Couture

Is John Galliano's reoccurring trip into the Christian Dior archive leaving you craving for something more? Do Alexis Mabille's magically weightless linens have you pondering thoughts of how bad global warming seems to be? Well behold the 55 look solution to all (or most) of your problems. Bridging the gap between what today's woman wants to wear and the timeless classics that we all know and love, this season Giorgio Aramani revamps his usuals.

Drawing inspiration from black & white movies, much like Miuccia Prada did in her recent men's collection, past meets present with the return of the oversized bows of his Fall 08 Couture show. While Haute Couture remains as a field for some designers to play around with more extensive ensembles not featured in their ready-to-wear, the signature Armani look of blazer and pantsuit can be spotted once more. Yet maintaining exclusivity by presenting the sometimes boring and repetitive combo in lush and luxurious velvets.

Topping off the seemingly sensual looks with darkened black bobs, almost similar to the one seen on Charlize Theron in Aeon Flux, larger than life jewelry, and lust worthy fingerless gloves - it's clear that this is not your grandmother's Haute Couture. But that of a woman that lives to light a room.

The countless rounded shoulders and blue embellished animal style dress shown on Maryna Linchuk may have you screaming Balmain, but Christophe Decarnin could only dream of creating such innovative yet timeless designs, without making you look back later in life regretting the trends that float about today. Living in the moment, but planning ahead for the future.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Couture

Where would we be without the amazing productions created Jean Paul Gaultier? Each season you are undoubtedly guaranteed to be captured by the stories that play out on slightly unconventional runway. Transitioning from space goddesses in Fall 2008 Couture to bondage-clad red light women in Fall 2009, you can easily say that Gaultier's shows are always unpredictable. Yet expect to see the female form embraced fully in a fresh and exciting way.

Going back to his bold and partially questionable roots, this season Gaultier showcased a collection that would be sure to turn any couture client (or celebrity lucky enough to wear-and-return) into Hollywood starlet. With the power to rival the likes of Marilyn and Bardot.

Feathered furs and billowing gowns, the message of "being a woman with access to such pieces today, is just the greatest feeling in the world", was loud and clear from Lara Stone's start to Maria Kashleva's embellished finish.